Badal Mahal and Sufi Darwaza (Gate),
Chanderi, Ashok Nagar, Madhya Pradesh, India
- RohitKumar Parmar
Pic BMCh-01 Badal Mahal Darwaza
Pic BMCh-02 Sufi Darwaza
Chanderi, Ashok Nagar, Madhya Pradesh, India, geotagged for the famous Chanderi Saree has two Darwaza (gate) related monuments- the Badal Mahal and the Sufi Darwaza. Historically, Darwazas (gates) have been an important part of guarding enclaves, whether they were walled cities or forts. As part of a walled city or fort, each Darwaza (gate) was normally under the command of a Qiladaar or Kotwal to guard against thieves and invaders, with occasional stories of betrayal by them (the Qiladaar or Kotwal). There were other Darwazas that were ornate entrance to a Mahal (Palace), Garden, or enclave or built to commemorate an event or a dignitary. The two Darwazas (gates) Badal Mahal and Sufi, appear to be in the latter category, ornate entrance to a Mahal (palace) or a building.
The ornate Badal Mahal Darwaza built in the 15th century, during the reign of Sultan Mahmood Shah Khilji I, has naqqashi (fine carving), is a popular tourist destination, in a large campus with manicured gardens, a suitable ambience, well maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), with an entry ticket. The presence of gardens is not surprising, because ASI and other archaeological institutions appear to be spending a disproportionately larger share of resources on greening.
The Badal Mahal enclave also has a step well, which (step wells) have been a preferred source of water in the area. There are underground rooms around the step well. (Pic BMCh-03 & Pic BMCh-04)
Pic BMCh-03 Step well, Badal Mahal, Chanderi
Pic BMCh-04 Step well, Badal Mahal, Chanderi
Badal Mahal Darwaza is in an enclosure with a grand protective front wall, with a parapet 6 feet wide on which you can walk. (Pic BMCh-07 & Pic BMCh-08). As you walk, you can see beautiful lawns and the Badal Mahal gate with a view of the Chanderi Fort. (Pic BMCh-05)
Pic BMCh-05 View of Badal Mahal and Chanderi fort from the grand wall, Badal Mahal, Chanderi
There is an equally magnificent view of the Badal Mahal, its lawn and the grand wall from the Chanderi fort. (Pic BMCh-06
Pic BMCh-06 View of Badal Mahal and the grand wall from Chanderi fort, Chanderi
Pic BMCh-07 Grand wall, Badal Mahal, Chanderi
Pic BMCh-08 Grand wall, Badal Mahal, Chanderi
In contrast, the Sufi Darwaza, like the Sufi saints is a modest monument, not much publicised, also located in a simple environment. There is a (recent) tin shutter covering the lower part of the Sufi Darwaza that hides the monument and the view beyond it and needs to be removed. (Pic BMCh-09). The Darwaza has a garbage bin next to it, which could be taken up for cleaning alongwith the area. The signage of the Darwaza needs an upgrade and a relocation. (Pic BMCh-10)
Pic BMCh-09 Sufi Darwaza, Chanderi
Pic BMCh-10 Signage of Sufi Darwaza, Chanderi
The path to the Sufi Darwaza is through the Delhi Gate (Pic BMCh-11), along a narrow lane with an open drain, and an old market with shops of cloth & tailoring, jewellery, daily provisions, sweets, mobile charging and accessories. A large proportion of the shops are (wo)manned by women. There is large construction activity being done, destroying the heritage nature of the area.
Pic BMCh-11 Delhi Gate and lane to Sufi Darwaza, Chanderi
There are two other monuments in the vicinity of the Sufi Darwaza, which also appear to be of historical importance and require conservation and documentation. The first of more recent origin appears to be some kind of an office, while the second is an enclosing wall with a balcony, inside of which there would have been some building. (Pic BMCh-12 & Pic BMCh-13)
Pic BMCh-12 Old building near Sufi Darwaza, Chand
Pic BMCh-13 Grand wall near Sufi Darwaza, Chanderi
A simple and quick comparison of the two Darwazas (Pic BMCh-01 & Pic BMCh-02) shows patterns of similarity. Each Darwaza at the ends has tiered cylindrical structures going upwards to support it, with the diameter reducing. There are six plus one such tiers (cylindrical strutures) in the Badal Mahal Darwaza with the top tier in the shape of a flower and appear in good condition. In contrast the Sufi Darwaza has only four tiers (cylindrical structures) on one side and three and a half tiers on the other. In the case of the Sufi Darwaza, the cylindrical structures appear to be thicker and are also less aesthetic.
In each of the two Darwazas, the elevation design has two floors of arch gates, with a net carving in stone (Jaalee) on the upper floor, providing for light, ventilation in an ornate design. However, the Naqqashi (fine carving) of the Badal Mahal Darwaza is relatively fine and superior to that of the Sufi Darwaza. The lower portion of the Sufi Darwaza is also closed.
In the Badal Mahal Darwaza, there is a gap before the Jaalee, possibly a viewing window either to the Chanderi Fort or to the moon before festival times, viewing of which is important. However, in the case of the Sufi Darwaza, there is no gap before the Jaalee.
There is a view that the two Darwzas were constructed only for commemorative reasons, foreclosing the need to further study the same. However, there is a strong possibility that the two Darwazas in the same vicinity, enclosed some kind of building or courtyard or area for social or religious gathering.
Visualizing the two Darwazas alongwith the wall around the Badal Mahal Darwaza suggests that it (Badal Mahal Darwaza) could be the front Darwaza, while the Sufi Mahal Darwaza appears to be the rear Darwaza. There are gaps in the details/ narrative, that could be considered for suitable further study.
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