Chand Baori (Stepwell), Abhaneri (Abha nagri), Bandikui, Dausa district, Rajasthan, India [1]
-Rohit Kumar Parmar [2]
Pic ChBa 01 Collage of Steps of Chand Baori in Rajasthan
1. Information Common to all Baoris (Stepwells)
Baoli or Baori or Bawri or Bawdi (Stepwell), called Barav or Baav in Marathi, Vav in Gujarati and Kalyani in Kannada, are unique architectural marvels found in arid areas/states of India – Delhi, Gujarat, Haryana, Karnataka, Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra, Rajasthan and in parts of Pakistan, and despite being popular amongst select tourists, are still largely unexplored. A visit to these temples of water, which support life, [3] offer a wonderful experience and an opportunity to share the same (experience) alongwith pictures. A stepwell tour should be high on priority of aesthetic art lovers and those with interest in history. Baoris have been an inspiration for/and filming location for Bollywood and Hollywood films.
Baoris have steps to reach the bottom of the well to access water. [4] These structures constructed with the main purpose of addressing water storage, also worked as air cooling systems. Each step well, a work of aesthetic architecture, art, sculpting mainly/largely on stone, displaying scientific and geometrical excellence and technology, embodying an ancient tradition of water management, is unique and/or dis-similar to other step wells. Stepwells were/are a part of social, religious and ceremonial activities of the community.
There are several mysteries related to Baoris. Are Baoris only for collecting and storing rainwater to augment the water table and/or replenish it, when there are no rains; or connected to an aquifer; a cooler temperature significantly lower than in the surrounding areas suggests a favourable air circulation system; brilliant precision symmetry, in what appears to be a top down construction like the Kailash temple, Ellora, Maharashtra in some cases; bhoot (ghost) and many more mysteries. Several of these Baoris have tunnels leading to different locations in the near/distant neighbourhood, with stories of people disappearing.
2. Chand Baori, Abhaneri (Abhanagri), Bandikui, Dausa district, Rajasthan, India
Chand Baori, Abhaneri or Abhanagri (city of brightness) the oldest and most famous, stated to be the largest stepwell, with imposing design and dimensions, named after Raja Chanda of the Gujara Pratihara clan, claiming descent to Lord Ram's younger brother Laxman. The Gujara Pratihara dynasty whose capital was Mandore (near Jodhpur) was at their peak during 6th-10th century AD, and also ruled over other parts of Rajasthan. A three day Abhaneri annual festival is held at the beginning of Sharad Navratras. The author witnessed preparations for a Jagran at the Harshat Mata Mandir located in the same compound on his visit during Navarartas in 2021.
Pic ChBa 02 Front view of the Pavillion of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
The Baori appears to have been built in two phases. Based on similarities in style and carvings with terraced temples of Paranagar and Mandore, the first phase of construction of Chand Baori is dated 8th-9th century.
An upper portion/palace building was added around the 18th century, which is reflected by the tabulated arches used by the Chauhan rulers and the cusped arches used by the Mughals.
The Baori is enclosed by a high wall with covered verandas on all four sides, the gateway/entrance is on the northern side through a covered enclosure.
Pic ChBa 03 Side view of the Pavillion Chand Baori, Abhaneri
The entrance to the main Baori through the northern side has a three storied pavilion of beautifully carved jharokhas (stone window), galleries supported on pillars, a resting room for royals and two projecting balconies with beautiful sculptures, including those of Mahishamardini and Ganesa. The two balconies which project towards the stepwell are visible in the pictures. (Pic ChBa 02 and Pic ChBa 03)
Pic ChBa 04 Frontal view of the Eastern steps of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
The other three sides of the square/rectangle Baori have pairs of twin-steps leading to the water. (Pic ChBa 04 to Pic ChBa 10) The basic architectural design of Chand Baori consists of a long flight of 3,500 geometric/triangular set of six-seven pairs of twin-steps each, arranged in perfect symmetry, which descend 19.5 meters (64 feet deep) to the bottom of the well.
Pic ChBa 05 Side view of the Eastern steps of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
There is a flight of six-seven pair of twin-steps on each landing, on three sides of the Baori. Each of these flight of twin-steps of stone masonry, is two-three feet wide and reverses at each landing. In addition to being a visual delight in a diamond formation, the reversing of steps on each landing, offers safety while ascending or descending the Baori. The Baori has 13 stories visible in the pictures with this narrative. The Baori has a precise geometrical pattern, hard to find today.
Pic ChBa 06 View of the Southern steps of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
Pic ChBa 07 Second view of the Southern steps of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
The flight of twin-steps forms a magical maze, which is enhanced by the play of light and shadow on the structure, giving it a hypnotising look.
Pic ChBa 08 View of Southern and Western steps of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
At the bottom of the well, the air is stated to be 5-6°C cooler than at the surface, and was used as a community gathering place for locals during periods of intense heat.
Pic ChBa 09 View of Western steps and the Pavillion of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
Entrance to the flight of twin-steps in the Baori has been closed, which takes away the charm of visiting/viewing a stepwell. Climbing down the steps helps the visitor to get a magnificent view of the Baori and also feel the stated dip in temperature of 5-6 °C. Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) needs to reconsider the decision and open up a few flight of steps.
Water in Chand Baori, as also in other step wells, needs to be continuously cleaned by pumping it through a filter/cleaning system. A thin wire net on the top would also help in keeping the Baori clean.
Pic ChBa 10 View of Southern and Western steps of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
At the ground/surface level along the boundary wall, there are covered verandas. The veranda on the north is open and a visitor can walk through it.
Pic ChBa 11 View of Roof of the Western Veranda of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
Pictures of the roof of the veranda show that the same has stone slabs laid across. (Pic ChBa 11) Poor condition of the floor alongwith some low quality restoration work done is also visible. (Pic ChBa 12)
In the verandas (both closed and open), there are several exhibits of damaged sculpted images, pillars, etc, some pictures of which follow. It is not clear whether these exhibits are a part of the Baori or of some temple/structure in the vicinity. It would help the visitor, if the exhibits, some of which are sequentially numbered by ASI, have the description/details of the same alongside or on the website of ASI.
Pic ChBa 12 View of the Floor and restoration work on the Western Veranda of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
Pic ChBa 13 Exhibit possibly of a scene of a mythological story in the Western Veranda, Chand Baori, Abhaneri
Pic ChBa 14 Exhibit of God/King in the Western Veranda of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
Pic ChBa 15 Exhibit of Goddess/Queen in the Western Veranda of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
Pic ChBa 16 Exhibit of a sage in prayer mudra in the Western Veranda of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
Pic ChBa 17 Exhibit of a damaged pillar in the Western Veranda of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
Pic ChBa 18 Exhibit of a damaged temple amalaka (segmented or notched stone disk) in the Western Veranda of Chand Baori, Abhaneri
The two verandas on the Western and Southern side are closed and also house exhibits. In the verandas and at other places, sliding roofs functioning as run-offs for water in the direction of the well, can be seen. (Pic ChBa 19)
Pic ChBa 19 View of the Southern Closed Veranda housing Ornate figurines
Chand Baori, Abhaneri
Pic ChBa 20 is view of the closed and covered Northern Veranda being mis-used by the ASI as an office/store.
Pic ChBa 20 View of the Northern Veranda being mis-used by the ASI as an office/store
Chand Baori, Abhaneri
[1] This is a series covering Stepwells in Rajasthan based on travel in October 2021. [2] Author has in posts on his website (https://rohitkparmar.wixsite.com/site), twitter (https://twitter.com/rohitkparmar?s=09), facebook (https://www.facebook.com/rohit.parmar.5268750/), linkedin (https://www.linkedin.com/in/rohit-kumar-parmar-841b4724) been writing on diverse topics including historical sites and can be reached at rohitkparmar@yahoo.com. [3] The author was informed of shortage of drinking water on his visit on October 12, 2021, immediately after a good but delayed monsoon. [4] Stepwells are different from Kunds or reservoirs, which may have steps but are only storage tanks.
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