Chhatris (Cenotaphs) of Orchha-Rohit Kumar Parmar

Pic OrCh 01 View of Orchha Chhatris in Betwa

Chhatris (Cenotaphs) of Orchha

-Rohit Kumar Parmar [1]

Orchha (Tikamgarh district, Madhya Pradesh close to the border of Uttar Pradesh and 15 kms from Jhansi), is home to a number of monuments consisting of Orchha fort; Palaces (Anand Mahal, Jehangir Mahal, Rai Parveen Mahal, Raja Mahal, Sheesh Mahal [2]); Temples (Chaturbhuj temple, Laxmi temple[3], Ram Raja temple); and other edifices, especially the Chhatris. These monuments were built by Bundela Rajputs starting from early 16th century - King Rudra Pratap Singh of Orchha and his successors.

Proximity of Bundelas to Jhansi is reflected in a (chorus) verse in the poem झाँसी की रानी (Jhansi ki Rani) by सुभद्राकुमारी चौहान (Subhadra Kumari Chauhan), in honour of Rani Laxmibai, when tales of her valour are attributed to Bundela folk lore.

` बुंदेलेहर बोलों के मुंह हमने सुनी कहानी थी, ख़ूब लड़ी मर्दानी वो तो झांसी वाली रानी थी ।‘

(Bundele har bolon ke munh hamne suni kahani thi, Khoob Ladi Mardani woh to Jhaansi waali Rani thi).

Pic OrCh 02 Row of Chhatris, Kanchan Ghat, Betwa

Fifteen Chhatris (Cenotaphs) were built on the west bank (Kanchan Ghat) of River Betwa, 1.5 km south of Orchha Fort, a short downhill walk through a market, and then along the Betwa.

The magnificent row of Chhatris offer beautiful views from several locations - the present narrow low level bridge [1] on River Betwa; and from the eastern bank of Betwa; with reflection of the Chhatris in the Betwa, a view of the sunset behind the Chhatris, merging with the horizon, and are a treat to photographers.

Pic OrCh 03 View of Sunset, Chhatris and Betwa

The Chhatris during sunset (and maybe sunrise also) appear golden alongwith Betwa and the horizon.

Pic OrCh 04 View of sunset between the Chhatri of Vir Singh Deo (on the left) and another Chhatri

These Chhatris constructed as a mark of respect for the mighty rulers of Bundelkhand, speak of their victories and other stories. These memorials are empty/vacant/unoccupied structures.

Pic OrCh 05 View of Chhatri displaying architectural splendour

The Chhatris are tall, square, three storey buildings, open on all sides, built on raised platforms, with a shikhar (शिखर pinnacle) and small Domed tops, resembling an umbrella, and so called Chhatri.

Pic OrCh 06 View of Chhatri, steps of Kanchan Ghat

The Chhatris have a square sanctum surrounded by a rectangular passage with ornate arched doors. The Sanctum (on the top floor) has four arched doors in each direction. On each corner, there are square rooms with small domes as roof. The inside of the domes are painted, as in buildings like Laxmi Temple and Raja Mahal in Orchha, which are adorned with murals. There are sun-shades or run-off to protect from strong sunshine and possible damage due to rain. The Chhatris display Bundela art and architecture, which drew upon contemporary styles.

Pic OrCh 07 Bundela art and architecture shikhar/dome

The shikhar (शिखर pinnacle) has a design similar to that of temples and other contemporary buildings. The shikhar appears to have six faces, and reduces from its base towards the top, finally becoming a sharp point. On each face of the shikhar, there are two smaller ornate embeddings, resembling the shikhar, and a third one in the shape of a jharoka (window). Beyond the merging of the six faces of the shikhar, there is a unified structure, with two rings, followed by a base in the shape of an inverted round vessel, another ring, then a round globoid shape object, followed by two more rings and then a sharp/pointed end. The design of the shikhar varies slightly in different Chhatris. However, the Chhatri of Vir Singh Deo, is significantly different.

Pic OrCh 08 Chhatri of Madhukar Shah, Kanchan Ghat

There are Chhatris of Banka Umed Singh, Jaswant Singh, Madhukar Shah, Pahar Singh, Udait Singh, Vir Singh Deo, amongst others. All except the Chhatris of Vir Singh Deo have similar designs.

Pic OrCh 09 Chhatri of Banka Umed Singh, Kanchan Ghat

The Chhatri of Vir Singh Deo, the most successful Bundela Raja, is the most popular of all because of its unique architecture and design. The chhatri has a smaller adjoined structure serving as an entrance, with only a dome, sans shikhar. The top/roof of the chhatri does not have a shikhar similar to other chhatris. The top/roof of the chhatri of Vir Singh Deo has a round structure which resembles a chausanth yogini temple. [1]

Pic OrCh 10 Chhatri of Vir Singh Deo, displaying a different design

Pic OrCh 11 Another view of Chhatri displaying architectural splendour

There are few other pictures of chhatris or other views of chhatris, and the low level bridge on Betwa, that offers great views of chhatris can also be seen at https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.5354520424671346&type=3