Deeg Mahal, Deeg, Bharatpur District, Rajasthan, India-Rohit Kumar Parmar

Deeg Mahal, Deeg, Bharatpur District, Rajasthan, India

-Rohit Kumar Parmar [1]

Pic DeegPa 01 Deeg Mahal from Deeg Fort on a hazy day

Deeg Mahal (Palace) or Jal Mahal located at a distance of 32 km from Bharatpur (Rajasthan, India), a luxurious summer resort for rulers of Bharatpur State, was in active use till early 1970s. Built from sandstone slabs of red/pink colour and finely plastered, the architecture is a combination of different styles and is locally referred to as the Jat style. Parts of the Raisina hill buildings of Rashtrapati Bhawan, the North and South Blocks in New Delhi, are also built with similar sandstone slabs, found in Bharatpur and other parts of Rajasthan. Deeg Mahal comprising of several Bhawans (individual palaces), constructed by Jat rulers Surajmal (A.D. 1756-63) and Jawahar Singh (A.D. 1764-68), was completed in 1772.

Deeg is an ancient town whose original name was Deergapur, which also finds mention in the Skand Purana. An annual fair is organised here for three days in the month of September. Deeg was the first capital of Bharatpur state built by King Thakur Badan Singh as the summer residence of the rulers of Bharatpur, amply displayed by open spaces, gardens and talabs.

Pic DeegPa 02 Manicured lawns, Deeg Mahal

There are several striking features of Deeg Mahal, which are missing in today’s construction in India – aesthetics; precision geometry (straight line, squares, rectangles) and symmetry; harmony between open spaces and nature, including water, plants and sunlight, which form an important part of the Mahal and contribute to a healthy living environment.

Pic DeegPa 03 Outside View of Singh Pol, Deeg Mahal

Entrance to the Deeg Mahal is through the ornate Singh Pol (magnificent gate), which displays features of the Jat style of construction.

Pic DeegPa 04 Inside view of Singh Pol, Deeg Mahal

Deeg Mahal has several Bhawans, several Charbaghs (set of four gardens) mainly square in shape, at least one for each Bhawan, and two rectangular shaped water talabs (tanks), Gopal Sagar (in the west) and Rup Sagar (in the east).

Six Bhawans (individual palaces) form part of Deeg Mahal and include

i. Gopal Bhawan with two flanking pavilions, viz. Sawan and Bhadon,

ii. Suraj Bhawan,

iii. Hardev Bhawan,

iv. Kishan Bhawan,

v. Kesava Bhawan,

vi. Nand Bhawan.

Pic DeegPa 05 Five arches in the front section, Gopal Bhawan

The architecture of Deeg palace comprises of ornately carved pillars, supporting flat floors or terraces, pavilions and balconies. The façade comprises of five semi-circular arches over doors/windows, and semi-dome shaped roofs in some cases. A large part of the construction is in the prop and lintel or trabeate architecture style.

There are sun-shades or run-off to protect from strong sunshine and possible damage due to rain.

Pic DeegPa 06 Sunshade and Ornate Carving on Pillars, Gopal Bhawan

Pic DeegPa 07 Ornate Carving, Saavan pavilion, Gopal Bhawan

The features of semi-circular arches resting on ornate pillars, visible throughout the Mahal, is also visible in what can be called an observation post outside the Gopal Bhawan.

Pic DeegPa 08 Ornate observation post, Gopal Bhawan

Each Bhawan conforming to the Jat style, also possesses a unique style and design, differentiating it from other Bhawans. Almost all of them have five arched gates as opening on each face.

Gopal Bhawan

Gopal Bhavan residence of the King, is the largest and one of the finest palaces in Deeg Mahal and houses artefacts of the Jat Rulers. Gopal Bhawan is built mainly in two storeys, but in certain parts has three or even four storeys as basement or underground rooms, which face the Gopal Sagar tank.

Pic DeegPa 09 View of Gopal Bhawan from central garden and largest fountain

On the eastern face of Gopal Bhawan, there is an unobstructed view of Charbagh and the fountains, including the largest fountain at the centre of the garden.

Gopal Bhawan has two small adjoining pavilions, which are identical and known as Saavan and Bhaadon, named after the two auspicious monsoon months of Vikram Samvat, the Hindu Calendar.

Pic DeegPa 10 Visible storeys of Bhadon pavilion along Gopal Sagar

Saavan (on the north) and Bhaado (on the south) face Gopal Sagar and would have been pleasant pavilions to sit on a water front, possibly accompanied with entertainment or other social activity. There are steps that lead to the lower storeys of Saavan and Bhaado.

Both Saavan and Bhaado have two visible storeys and a roof shaped as a small arc semi-dome, less than a semi-circled hemisphere, with a row of nine (some damaged) sets of three circular rings as shikhar (peak or highest point) with floral base and design, as in temples in India.

Pic DeegPa 11 View of Saavan pavilion, Gopal Bhawan

The western face of Gopal Bhawan and Saavan Bhaado offer picturesque reflections in the waters of Gopal Sagar, depending on the time of the individual’s visit, with the best photographs from the western end of Gopal Sagar.

Even though photography inside the Gopal Bhawan is banned, the web has several photographs as evidence that informal market/approvals exists for select few. Respecting the restriction, this author did not take any photographs or include one’s available on the web.

There is a main reception hall, private meeting hall, dining hall and other chambers. On the southern side within Gopal Bhawan, there is a temple of Hanuman ji, in brown jade stone, stated to have been sourced from Afghanistan.

On the eastern side of Gopal Bhawan one can view the mount of a marble swing fixed on the top of a courtyard/pavilion, stated to have been brought from Delhi as war gains by Jawahar Singh.

Pic DeegPa 12 Mount of marble swing on eastern side of Gopal Bhawan

Pic DeegPa 13 Side view of Gopal Bhawan with a spiral staircase

There are several other magnificent views of Gopal Bhawan and Sagar. A side view shows a spiral staircase, possible for staff. There are several other views - an island and sandstone steps of Gopal Sagar.

Pic DeegPa 14 An island, Gopal Sagar

Pic DeegPa 15 Well laidout sandstone steps, Gopal Sagar

There are several gardens with attractive fountains, stated to be numbering a thousand, with manicured lawns, flowerbeds, and rows of trees, in strict symmetry, which is missing today. The Garden and open spaces have several stone benches for sitting.

Pic DeegPa 16 Another view of gardens and fountains, Deeg Palace

Suraj Bhawan

Named after Raja Surajmal, Suraj Bhawan located to the south of Gopal Bhawan is a splendid building in the Deeg Mahal complex. Built in sandstone, it has a marble encasing in parts, stated to be sourced from Red Fort, Delhi and Makrana, Rajasthan, and so bears some similarities with Mughal architecture.

Pic DeegPa 17 Two faces of Suraj Mahal and gardens

Each face of the square shaped Suraj Bhawan has a courtyard with five arched openings and rooms at the corner, which have dome like ceiling decorated with a single lotus similar to many Mughal buildings.

Pic DeegPa 18 Western courtyard with five openings, Suraj Bhawan,

Suraj Bhawan consists of an elevated single storey with a levelled roof.

Pic DeegPa 19 Western entrance and Octagonal fountain, Suraj Bhawan

Every courtyard has a central tank/fountain containing water fountains for beautifying and cooling the Bhawan.

The rooms of the building are well lit through windows and straight-line corridors mitigating the monotony of the walls. The straight line corridors apart from ensuring sunlight may also have a safety/security angle to it due to direct line of sight.

There is a sandstone structure with a courtyard and side-compartments on the east of Suraj Bhawan.

Pic DeegPa 20 Straight line view of east ensuring sunlight/safety, Suraj Bhawan

Suraj Bhawan was originally built of buff sandstone to which white marble encasing was added subsequently.

Pic DeegPa 21 Straight line view of Gopal Bhawan from Suraj Bhawan ensuring sunlight/safety

The interiors of Suraj Bhawan display an ornate residence with walls and floors inlaid with flowers and leaves, in semi-precious stones, many of which are now damaged/missing. Suraj Bhawan may have been designed for the ladies as a palace for residence and leisure.

Pic DeegPa 22 Ornate walls/floors, flowers and leaves inlaid with semi-precious stones

Pic DeegPa 23 Another view of Ornate walls/floors, flowers and leaves inlaid with semi-precious stones

Pic DeegPa 24 Ornate carving in flower and leaf designs, Suraj Bhawan

The joints of walls and other places with marble encasing, were ornately carved in leaf and flower designs.

Pic DeegPa 25 Another view of ornate carving in flower and leaf patterns, Suraj Bhawan

Hardev Bhawan

Situated just behind Suraj Bhawan, Hardev Bhawan, has a large garden in front, laid out in Charbagh style. Hardev Bhawan built by Surajmal to suit his taste and requirements, at the south end of Deeg Mahal complex, appears as an extension.

Pic DeegPa 26 Hardev Bhawan

The main hall of the Bhawan on the south is double storeyed with the ground floor consisting of a projected central hall with arches supported by a row of double pillars.

Pic DeegPa 27 Garden and main hall, Hardev Bhawan

Pic DeegPa 28 Arches/pillars in Main hall, Hardev Bhawan

Hardev Bhawan built of sandstone and marble, is badly damaged and needs urgent restoration. Infact access to the sides, rear and upper storeys is risky. Some views of damaged sections of Hardev Bhawan available are given below.

Pic DeegPa 29 Outside view of damaged Hardev Bhawan

Pic DeegPa 30 Inside view of damaged Hardev Bhawan

Pic DeegPa 31 A second inside view of damaged Hardev Bhawan

Pic DeegPa 32 Outside view of damaged portion adjoining Hardev Bhawan

Kishan Bhawan

Situated at the centre of the southern side of Deeg Mahal, Kishan Bhawan comprises an ornate and well decorated façade of five large archways. The archways are doors/openings to a large hall, akin to that in Gopal Bhawan.

Pic DeegPa 33 Façade, Balconies and Takht, Kishan Bhawan

There is a stone takht (podium), possible place for a throne or a royal chair on a raised courtyard, which gives a magnificent view of the gardens and the complex. This Bhawan also houses some artefacts of the Jat rulers. Photography is banned inside Kishan Bhawan.

Pic DeegPa 34 Side view of Façade, Kishan Bhawan

There is an ornate balcony visible on the front side as a sprandrel (triangular space between the roof and a wall).

Pic DeegPa 35 Carving on side walls of courtyard Kishan Bhawan

Pic DeegPa 36 Another carving on side walls of courtyard, Kishan Bhawan

Keshav Bhawan

Keshav Bhawan, a two storeyed structure commonly known as 'baradari' is situated at the east end of the Deeg Palace complex. The Bhawan on the bank of Rup Sagar would have been a pleasant setting for an evening of entertainment or social gathering with lamps lit in Rup Sagar.

Pic DeegPa 37 Five arches on each side, Keshav Bhawan

Keshav Bhawan is an open square Bhawan with five ornate arches on each side for ventilation and passage of light.

The fountain spray jets in Keshav Bhawan create a monsoon-like ambience that is enhanced by a unique technique that produces thunder-like sound all around the pavilion.

Keshav Bhawan is stated to have been designed so that stone balls in the ceiling could be agitated by piped running water to create a noise of thunder, when the water was released through spouts above the arches to fall as rain in sheets around the open hall.

Pic DeegPa 38 Arcade inside, over a canal with hundreds of fountains, Keshav Bhawan

An arcade runs around the interior of the pavilion over a canal with hundreds of fountains. The walls of the canal are pierced with hundreds of minute water jets. Bullocks were employed with Mashak (large leather "buckets") to draw water to the tank through a complex pulley system.

In festivals such as Holi, colours were added to the water. Small cloth pouches with organic colours were manually inserted into the holes in the reservoir wall. When the water flowed through them passing along an intricate network of pipelines, the fountains spouted coloured water.

Pic DeegPa 39 View of Keshav Bhawan and fountains from central fountain

Visitor to Deeg Palace can get splendid views of Keshav Bhawan from the Central fountain and also from Lakha Top (canon), Deeg Fort.

Pic DeegPa 40 View of two storeys of Keshav Bhawan from Deeg Fort

While most authors refer to the Keshav Bhawan as single storeyed, a view (and picture) of the Bhawan from Deeg Fort shows the second lower storey also.

Keshav Bhawan also offers splendid views of Lakha Top, Deeg Fort and other buildings.

Pic DeegPa 41 View of Lakha Top, Deeg Fort and Rup Sagar from Keshav Bhawan

Pic DeegPa 42 View of an unidentified building - a gate from Keshav Bhawan

Nand Bhawan

Nand Bhawan at the centre of the northern side of Deeg Mahal, comprises a spacious main hall resembling an auditorium enclosed by a grand arcade.

Pic DeegPa 43 View of Nand Bhawan from entrance of Deeg Mahal

Pic DeegPa 44 Main hall, Nand Bhawan

The main hall of Nand Bhawan as in other Bhawan’s, is large with high roofs to facilitate cooling, in an otherwise hot environment.

In the main hall of Nand Bhawan as in other Bhawan’s, there are intermediate/ mezzanine floors, some with stone carved arches with jaali (perforated stone or latticed screen), possibly for women who practiced purdah (veil).

Pic DeegPa 45 Intermediate/mezzanine floors, main hall, Nand Bhawan

A central arcade arranged on a rectangular pattern divides the main hall into inner and outer sections.

Pic DeegPa 46 Main hall divided into inner and outer sections by a central arcade, Nand Bhawan

Each wing of Nand Bhawan and in some other Bhawan’s also, consist of a raised floor covered by inter-connected compartments having walls decked with ornamental alcoved balconies in marble, at times inlaid with semi-precious stones.

Pic DeegPa 47 Interconnected rooms on eastern side and sunken rectangular space, Nand Bhawan

There is also a sunken rectangular space with an un-aesthetically modernised roof. The author was informed that the auditorium is used for wrestling events.

Pic DeegPa 48 Windows allowing light and ventilation, Nand Bhawan

Pic DeegPa 49 Three pillars with different material and style, Nand Bhawan

The main hall has pillars (and balconies and basins) of different material and style, possibly because they were brought from Delhi as war gains by the Jat rulers.

[1] Author has in posts on his website (https://rohitkparmar.wixsite.com/site), twitter (https://twitter.com/rohitkparmar?s=09), facebook (https://www.facebook.com/rohit.parmar.5268750/), linkedin (https://www.linkedin.com/in/rohit-kumar-parmar-841b4724) been writing on diverse topics including historical sites and can be reached at rohitkparmar@yahoo.com.