Standardized Clothing sizes -possible road map [1]
Rohit Kumar Parmar [2]
IES (Retd) and Free lance
Former Senior Economic Adviser
Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Food and Public Distribution
1. Introduction
1.1 From home-stitched/tailor-made clothing, the Indian consumer has moved on to purchasing ready-made clothing. Similarly, large sections of Indian consumers have migrated to making online purchases for a range of goods and services, including clothing. The above two changes necessitate the introduction of `standardized clothing sizes’ based on `body measurements and anthropometric built of Indians’, [3] which should be adopted by a large/r section of manufacturers and intermediaries, portals, preferably voluntarily.
1.2 In addition to ensuring the best fit, `standardised clothing sizes’ has the potential to speed up decision making in the selection/choice, increase sales, reduce return/exchange of goods for this reason and so increase profits. If these `standardized clothing sizes’ are also adopted by all players in the value chain, including offline and online traders, it can help to increase output quantities and sales. Manufacturing to `standardized clothing sizes’ can also help reduce consumption of fabric.
1.3 There is another segment, which manufactures mainly for export, sizes for which are dictated/determined by the importing nation and/or the business house/MNC, which sources the same. Accordingly, impact of the issue of `standardized clothing sizes’ for this segment is minimal.
1.4 The need for the present discussion is to facilitate selection/choice of the correct size, by the consumer while purchasing it, both offline and online. In the process, there are gains of efficiency in all stages of the value chain- sourcing, manufacture and sales, and savings of fabric, etc., to be reaped.
2. Size and measurement of t-shirts on an online portal
2.1 Illustratively (a real life example) for XXL size, the measurements of two t-shirts on a given portal are different. The chest size (in inches) is different, 46 and 44. Similarly, the length (also in inches) of the t-shirts is also marginally different, 30.5 and 32, respectively. So, if an individual with a chest size of 46 inches, without going into the details, orders XXL size, he may end up with a t-shirt with chest size of 44 inches. [4] (Annexure A has the links and tables comparing the sizes of the two t-shirts). Other consumers and Industry could have also had such experiences during offline and on-line purchases/sales. Such a situation may result in either the product being returned by the consumer, [5] or the consumer ending up with an incorrect sized product. In both the situations, there is wastage or muda [6] and should be avoided/minimized.
3. Standards for clothing in other countries
3.1 Globally, there are different standards for garments. The ISO standards were introduced between 1977-1982, and then revised between 2017-2018. Introduction of ISO standards alongwith the year of introduction is at Annexure B. There are specific country standards also, such as Europe (2004 and 2006); Japan (1997); South Korea (2004 and 2009); United Kingdom (1982); United States of America (1958, 1971). Size chart comparisons (USA, UK, Euro, France, Italy) for Women and Men are at Annexure C.
3.2 The US (and possibly other countries also) standards for clothing sizes for women were originally developed from statistical data in the 1940s and 1950s, and were similar in concept to EN 13402, the European clothing size standard. Individual manufacturers have, however, always deviated from them, at times significantly.
3.3 In 1958, the National Bureau of Standards, USA invented a sizing system, based on the hourglass figure, [7] using only the bust size to create an arbitrary standard of sizes ranging from 8 to 38, with an indication for height (short, regular, and tall) and lower-body girth (plus or minus).
3.4 The joint European standard for clothes, known as EN 13402 standard, is based on body dimensions measured in centimetres, and aims to find fitting clothing sizes by measuring the body with a tape measure (as at home) or by comparing the same to an already fitting clothing which adheres to the EN 13402 standard. As explained earlier, by reducing the return of clothes, this can contribute to relatively more environmentally friendly trade.
3.5 There are at least two ways to address the issue, first is to adopt an existing standard size Euro, UK or USA or to lay down India specific standards. Infact, after laying down India specific standards, other standards will also continue, because of transition and/or for export related manufacture.
4. Present Standards for clothing sizes in India
4.1 For historical/trade reasons, the `clothing sizes’, in India adhered to standards of UK/importing partner. Domestic organised trade, which has grown in the last two decades, evolved a hybrid between the various global standards. Individual fashion brands in India also adopted their own size specifications.
4.2 For a long time, Indians suffered in respect of size/fitting of clothes, which could vary from store to store or within a store also. There could be issues of sleeve or neck sizes, amongst others. The absence of `standardised clothing sizes’ chart for India, in the ready-to-wear clothing sector has restricted the Indian buyer and also slowed growth of the industry.
5. NIFT Survey on `Size India’, 2018-2021
5.1 Mastering intricate skills of sizing is a challenge faced by the Indian fashion and clothing industry, and can be addressed by pooling the experience and wisdom of all players, at all levels in the industry, who have handled almost all situations, albeit at an individual/micro level. Experience gained in these situations need to be reduced to `standardised clothing sizes’, to cover 1.3 billion people living across 28 States and 8 Union Territories, each having diverse culture, occupational backgrounds, not so similar `body measurements and anthropometric builts’, all of which impact clothing/habits.
5.2 The National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), New Delhi, a premier fashion institute under the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India in February 2018, announced the commencement of a scientific study `Size India’, to introduce `an anthropometric size chart’ for the Indian consumer, to be completed in two years. The project was welcomed by fashion designers and it was stated that clothes tailored following the `Size India’ chart specially developed for the Indian body size and shape will make Indians look more beautiful and feel more confident. [8]
5.3 Some of the salient features of the project are:
i. The project cost of ` 30 crores, was to be shared as collaboration between the Ministry of Textiles funding ` 21 crores and the NIFT contributing ` 9.3 crores. Given that the domestic fashion and textile industry was projected to touch US$ 123 billion by 2021, the expenditure on the project is small.
ii. Further, given the high percentage (20% to 40%) of return of clothing, reported when shoppers faced difficulty in finding clothing that was in accordance to their body measurements and anthropometric built, such a project would bring immense saving to the industry. The percentage of return of clothing has been going up, with the advent of e-commerce and relative decrease of retail.
iii. The comprehensive exercise to create a database of measurements, was to involve a sample population of 25,000 (male/female) Indians [9] in the age group of 15 to 65 years, across 6 states.
iv. The `Size India’ Project will deploy three automated 3D whole body scanners across New Delhi (North), Mumbai (West) , Kolkata (East), Hyderabad (Centre), Bengaluru (South), and Shillong (North East), and adjoining rural/areas.
v. The human-friendly scanners are enabled to extract highly accurate 3D full body maps in less than 10 seconds, thereby reducing the strenuous amount of time required to compile anthropometric surveys.
vi. The scanners weighing 200 kg each, will analyse 120 body measurements besides height, bust size, waist size, hip girth, neck girth, wrist size, and arm length.
vii. An accurate scan demands minimal clothing on the human body once the person enters the 3D scanning machine. Keeping in mind the Indian cultural ethos, NIFT has proposed fitted body suits to be made available at the time of scanning.
viii. India is varied and diverse in terms of its backgrounds and beliefs, so the main challenge to the project is to convince the sample population to volunteer for the exercise.
ix. The measurements are to be categorized into a standardized size chart that would be presented in numerical value and would be in accordance to ISO standards to ensure its relevance to the domestic and international markets. The anthropometric size chart would ring for multiple end users with the database being relevant for any ergonomically driven work environment.
x. The data was to be collected in a dotted format, technically labelled as ‘cloud form’, in which the face of the person is not stored. The point cloud data was to be extracted over government approved cloud service platforms to ensure confidentiality and privacy.
xi. The data is to be treated as property of Ministry of Textiles.
xii. At the time of launch, the official statement highlighted that the data created as part of this project will be confidential and secure. This aspect needs to be strictly implemented and steps taken for the same should be publicised. This is necessary in view of the fact that there are several reports of breach of sensitive data in recent times.
xiii. The first size chart was expected to come out by 2021, and was to be revised, tweaked and customized in accordance with different brands and companies. Revision was to be done for validation over a period of years with a smaller sample size.
xiv. The second phase of the project will map sizes for children, as well as footwear. In addition to impacting the apparel sector, the project would also impact other ergonomically led industries such as shoes and leather accessories; fitness and sports; art and computer gaming; furniture; automotive and aerospace. There would also be externalities of the project.
5.4 The `Size India’ chart thus prepared will enhance competition and aid the clothing sector (industry and consumer) in several ways/groups:
a. growth of emerging homegrown brands in domestic and overseas markets;
b. help exporters (and also overseas players) enter the domestic market by launching their own brands;
c. consumer acceptance of certain brands, previously avoided because of ill-fit garments.
5.5 As stated earlier, `Size India’ charts will address the problem of return of clothing and the associated loss of sale/lower profit. Assuming similarities in anthropometric built, the Indian diaspora can after introduction of the chart, also order any clothing based on `Size India’ charts, which will help expand markets.
6. The `Size India’ chart, suggestions for a possible road map
The following are suggestions of the author for the road map :
A. India is too diverse a country, with very different Anthropometric numbers. There would be differences in Anthropometric numbers across and within a region/centres, as identified by the project. Accordingly, it is necessary to shed the `one-size-fits-all’ approach to the problem. The `Size India’ chart needs to provide for differences across a diverse country.
B. The automobile pattern of variants around a `modal’ [10] size needs to be adopted. Around the `modal’ size of the several Anthropometric numbers, variants need to be built.
C. These variant should also factor in the type of fabric, especially if it is synthetic or natural and within natural, if it is silk, etc. Every fabric fits differently, requiring different sizes.
`When you wear a georgette, or when you wear a silk, the fittings for both are very different.’
D. The `Size India,’ charts as part of it (chart) or otherwise should build in flexibility in the size of the clothing. This author found the lengths of trousers sold in Yemen, without hemming at the lower end, so that the consumer could have it done as per his requirement. Similarly, staying with trousers, buckles in the side can provide for adjustment of waist at any time.
E. Several such examples can be pooled in and included in the `Size India’ charts. Such variants need not be adopted by all clothing manufacturers. A suitable marking can indicate that the manufacturer provided such flexibility.
F. It is important that `Size India’ chart should be voluntarily adopted as a guideline, which is self-regulatory. An appropriate sign should indicate, whether the clothing adheres to the same or not. Given the large volume of clothing, enforcement of the same is not possible.
G. There would a need for several exemptions transition period, exporters, small and tiny manufacturers, etc, when the `Size India’, charts are adopted.
Annexure A
Links and tables for comparing sizes of two T-shirts
First shirt
Second T-shirt
Annexure B
ISO Standards on Garments
ISO 3635, 1981, body measurement procedure. (withdrawn);
ISO 3636: 1977, Size designation of clothes - Men's and boys outerwear garments. (withdrawn)
ISO 3637: 1977, Size designation of clothes - Women's and girls outerwear garments. (withdrawn)
ISO 3638: 1977, Size designation of clothes - Infants garments. (withdrawn)
ISO 4415: 1981, Size designation of clothes - Mens and boys underwear, nightwear and shirts. (withdrawn)
ISO 4416: 1981, Size designation of clothes - Women's and girls’ underwear, nightwear, foundation garments and shirts. (withdrawn)
ISO 4417: 1977, Size designation of clothes - Headwear. (withdrawn)
ISO 4418: 1978, Size designation of clothes - Gloves. (withdrawn)
ISO 5971: 1981, Size designation of clothes - Pantyhose.
ISO 7070: 1982, Size designation of clothes - Hosiery.
ISO 8559-1: 2017, Size designation of clothes — Part 1: Anthropometric definitions for body measurement
ISO 8559-2: 2017, Size designation of clothes — Part 2: Primary and secondary dimension indicators
ISO 8559-3: 2018, Size designation of clothes — Part 3: Methodology of the creation of the body measurement tables and intervals
ISO/TR 10652: 1991, Standard sizing systems for clothes (withdrawn)
Annexure C
Size chart comparisons (USA, UK, Euro, France, Italy) for Women and Men
[1] This is the second article on Textiles by the author. The first `Vision & Strategy to rejuvenate Handloom Textiles Case study of Chanderi’, can be accessed at https://rohitkparmar.wixsite.com/site/post/vision-strategy-to-rejuvenate-handloom-textiles-case-study-of-chanderi-rohit-kumar-parmar [2] Author has in posts on his website (https://rohitkparmar.wixsite.com/site), twitter (https://twitter.com/rohitkparmar?s=09), facebook (https://www.facebook.com/rohit.parmar.5268750/), linkedin (https://www.linkedin.com/in/rohit-kumar-parmar-841b4724) been writing on varied topics and can be reached at rohitkparmar@yahoo.com. [3] Relating to the scientific study of measurements and proportions of the human body. [4] Credit to the portal, which attached a table, giving size and measurements. [5] Indian apparel industry has reported returns of garments between 20 to 40 percent, which is increasing with the growth of e-commerce and the main reason for returns are poor garment fit. [6] Muda in Japanese means "futility; uselessness; wastefulness", and is a key concept in the lean production process, and thinking, like the Toyota Production System. [7] The hourglass figure is one of the four traditional female body shapes described by the fashion industry, which even though, a very desirable, proportionate and feminine type of body, is rare. [8] The author is of the view that Indians are beautiful and confident, in all situations and even before the launch of the chart `Size India’. [9] Even though the sample size is large, it needs to be increased in terms of statistical theory. [10] Among the available measures of central tendency for the purposes of selecting an average, the Mode (most frequently occurring) value is adopted. Other measures of averages, if adopted may not fit anyone.
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